nRF52840 Steam Controller 2 puck reimplementation — WebUSB. Chrome/Edge only.
If nothing appears in the device picker, the copycat may be busy (quit any app holding it) or needs a replug.
Switching reboots the copycat and re-enumerates USB (~2 s). WebUSB works in every mode, including Steam/Lizard with Steam running (Chrome claims the vendor interface; Steam keeps the HID slots). Switch HORIPAD + WebUSB is PC-only.
Hold all four back paddles (L4+R4+L5+R5) plus a face button to switch mode without the WebUI. A is always Steam. B / X / Y are configurable below (defaults: B=Lizard, X=Xbox, Y=Switch HORIPAD).
Reset detail: —
watchdog (hang)/CPU lockup/HARDFAULT = a fault worth reporting (issue #72); reboot = an intentional reset (mode change / config); power-on & pin/replug = normal plug-in.
IMU (raw): —
Raw SC2 accel (before scaling). This controller is a ±2 g sensor (~16384 = 1 g); the Switch report divides it by 4 to present the genuine ±8 g (4096 = 1 g) scale so the console's gravity-correction engages and the gyro stops drifting.
Polls/s ≈ 250 expected; it's capped by Loop period (≈4000 µs needed). "Slowest stage" is the loop section eating the most time per iteration.
adafruit-nrfutil dfu serial … then replug.
.uf2 file onto it to flash, then it reboots automatically.
Right-pad cursor in Steam-mode lizard (Steam closed) and in Xbox mode. Sensitivity is a divisor — lower = faster pointer. Glide = how long the cursor coasts after a flick.
Scales rumble amplitude across all modes (100% = native, 200% = double, 0% = off).
Full rate (~250 Hz, default) is lowest-latency. 120 Hz is low-latency and drift-free. 66 Hz is a genuine-cadence compatibility fallback — drop to it only if your console rejects the faster rates.
Gyro sensitivity multiplier for Switch Pro mode (1.0× = unchanged).
Separate mappings per emulated controller type — each only offers targets that exist on that controller. The type matching the current mode is highlighted. Steam & Lizard are native puck modes (Steam does its own remapping) and aren't configured here.
Save this puck's controller pairings and every setting to a file, then restore them onto another puck. The other puck becomes a clone — any controller paired to this one connects to it with no re-pairing. (Also a plain backup: re-import after a factory erase to get everything back.)
Import overwrites all pairings and settings on the connected puck, then reboots it (~2 s — reconnect after). Tip: pair every controller to one puck, export once, then import onto each spare.
The firmware logs everything from boot into a big RAM ring: Steam's writes (ifN), the frames we transmit to the controller (TX→ctlr), and RF LINK UP/DOWN edges. For the reconnect buzz: trigger it (it appears moments after the puck boots / the controller reconnects), then connect here and click Dump from boot — the trigger is still in the ring. (Only present in a logging build, -DOPK_LOG=1.)
Dump streams the whole ring (oldest→newest) and then keeps live-updating until you press Stop. cmd is the command/report byte, then the raw bytes.